The production of organic wine is controlled by an EC Regulation, which establishes the rules for production, transformation, labelling, and importing of products. This Regulation has been in force since 1991. The Regulation concerns only the cultivation techniques used in the vineyard, and not the winemaking process. Organic wine is produced without using pesticides, chemical fertilizers, or GMO. Thus, the legal definition of organic wine is "wine made from organically grown grapes".

A short history

The history of organic winemaking began with that of organic farming between the two World Wars. Several movements began at that time. The Biodynamic movement was created in Germany in 1927, and was the first to set up a label "Demeter", certifying the origin of its production. It defined a broad conception of human nature and of life. The second source was the organic farming movement created in the UK in the 40’s, which advocated composting and the return to self-sufficient farming methods. In France, organic farming developed in the 1960’s, with the impetus of companies such as Lemaire-Boucher and then “Nature et Progrès”. During the 1970’s, organic farming was supported by ecological anti-establishment movements. Starting in the 1980’s, many agrobiologists distanced themselves from the early theories, and philosophical references became less frequent. Recognition came by means of the creation of various organisations (IFOAM – International Federation of the Organic Agriculture Movement in 1972, FNAB – French Organic Farmers’ Union in 1978, GRAB – French Organic Federation in 1979, and ITAB – the French Technical Institute for Organic Farming in 1982). Organic farming was officially acknowledged in France in 1981 and in Europe in 1991. At the European level, the CAP reform of 1992 set up assistance for conversion to organic farming and which became an incentive for many winegrowers to adopt organic methods. In France, organic wine growing involves more than 18,000 ha and 1500 producers.

How is it different from integrated farming?

Organic and integrated wine growing methods have points in common as well as differences.

The common points are:

• the goal of agricultural sustainability and practices that respect the environment
• the use of biological or so-called biological methods (B.t., sexual confusion, etc.)
• the existence of specifications and controlling procedures and organisations
• possible but restrictive labelling

The differences are indicated in the following table:

What motivates winegrowers to go for Organic Agriculture ?

• to value the expression of their ground.

The organic winegrowers are keen on searching a high typicity of their wine and how to value the potential of their ground. Through practices respectful of the environment and of the biodiversity, organic viticulture is a logical step.

• to adopt a way of producing respectful of the environment.

Winegrowers are aware of the more and more visible consequences of the technical process. Organic viticulture permits to limit erosion and trickle thanks to the vegetation cover in winter. Not using weedkillers permits to protect surface and underground water supplies.

• to protect the winegrower’s health.

This was the initial motivation of the winegrowers in the 60’s, it remains a major motivation.

• to find new prospects for the wine.

This niche is growing. The prices permit to value the wines and to compensate the production costs increase.

• to carry out a project to develop their vine-estate.

In certain cases, going for organic viticulture goes with the creation of a private cellar; they wish to directly promote and value their own products and to take part into short marketing channels which facilitates the direct contact with the customer.

What is the point of organic viticulture ?

• Producing quality wines.

The efforts which have been made on the quality for the last past years bear fruits. The results are blatant: now the «organic wines» are frequently prized when participating to “regular” contests: Concours Général de Paris, Challenge International du Vin, Concours des Caves Particulières, Chardonnay du Monde, Concours National des Vignerons Indépendants....

The assessment of the quality of the «organic wines» can also be made through the results of specific contests gathering only these wines and renowned professionals :

-Amphore award  (national)

• Diversifying and segmentation of the wine supply.

The French viticulture undergoes a crisis owing to three merging factors: the decrease of the wine consumption in France, the increase of competition due to the supply coming from the Southern countries on the export market, and the modification of the distilling process by EEC which makes it difficult to eliminate the surplus. Organic viticulture contributes, at its scale, to diversify and to segment the supply on international markets by creating new prospects and by answering the needs of the consumers looking for products respectful of the environment.

• Creating and preserving jobs.

The cultural practices of organic viticulture need a frequent follow-up of the vineyards, reasonable interventions and certain manual operations which, in total, employ a little more manpower than the regular viticulture.

• Protecting the water supplies

-triazines are the molecules which cause most of the problems. Their presence led the Ministry of Agriculture to forbid their use as of 2003 ;

-DDT, lindane and their by-products tend to decrease in the littoral waters, however, their persistence is high.

Within drinking water, the ruled thresholds are 0,1 µg/l and per substance or 0,5 µg/l for all the substances including the degrading products. Only 56% of the samples of superficial waters meant to be drinking water show compatible amounts with a non-treated distribution (0,1 and 0,5 µg/l). Since organic viticulture does not use herbicides, it contributes strongly in diminishing the risks of pollution of ground waters and especially in risky areas.

Organic viticulture accounts for a significant proportion of European organic production and occupies a sizeable agricultural area. In December 2003, the situation was as follows:

Italy – 31,709 ha (78,356 acres) with 5,900 producers

France – 16,259 ha (40,178 acres) with 1,455 producers

Germany – 2,000 ha (4,942 acres) with 350 producers

Spain – 16,435 ha (40,613 acres) with 1,200 producers

Austria – 1,400 ha (3,460 acres) with 250 producers.

The total for all these countries together is 67,803 ha / 167,548 acres (Burgundy’s vineyards cover 50,000 hectares / 123,555 acres!) and 9,155 producers.

Organic viticulture also exists in Greece, the Czech Republic, Hungary, Slovenia, Bulgaria and Croatia. An estimated 1.5% of wine is produced organically. In some countries, such as Italy and France, the rate at which areas are converting to organic production has slowed up since 2002, something that seems to be largely associated with changes in the system for conversion aid.

In some Member States, producers run small operations (producing fewer than 10,000 bottles), but their approach is becoming increasingly professional. As such, they need innovation and technical knowledge, but are frequently financially restricted insofar as technical improvements in the winery are concerned. In other Member States, organic vine growers form part of an innovative viticultural fringe group that deliberates use of techniques and market positioning.

Importance of organic viticulture at European level

Organic viticulture accounts for a significant proportion of European organic production and occupies a sizeable agricultural area. In December 2003, the situation was as follows:

Italy – 31,709 ha (78,356 acres) with 5,900 producers

France – 16,259 ha (40,178 acres) with 1,455 producers

Germany – 2,000 ha (4,942 acres) with 350 producers

Spain – 16,435 ha (40,613 acres) with 1,200 producers

Austria – 1,400 ha (3,460 acres) with 250 producers.

The total for all these countries together is 67,803 ha / 167,548 acres (Burgundy’s vineyards cover 50,000 hectares / 123,555 acres!) and 9,155 producers.

Organic viticulture also exists in Greece, the Czech Republic, Hungary, Slovenia, Bulgaria and Croatia. An estimated 1.5% of wine is produced organically. In some countries, such as Italy and France, the rate at which areas are converting to organic production has slowed up since 2002, something that seems to be largely associated with changes in the system for conversion aid.

In some Member States, producers run small operations (producing fewer than 10,000 bottles), but their approach is becoming increasingly professional. As such, they need innovation and technical knowledge, but are frequently financially restricted insofar as technical improvements in the winery are concerned. In other Member States, organic vine growers form part of an innovative viticultural fringe group that deliberates use of techniques and market positioning.

Increasing success of organic produce in France (CSA-Agence Bio)

According to the third survey conducted by CSA-Agence Bio 2005 (*), almost half the French population consumes organically produced foods and more than half feels an affinity with organic values.

The figure was 37% in 2003, 44% in 2004, and reached 47% in 2005: more and more French are consuming organic produce! It’s more than just a fad, and despite the sluggishness of the agro-food industry in 2005, produce from organic farming is ever more in demand in France. The figures confirm a growing French awareness of the importance of food quality, and the increasing strength of the organic market. Adding to this underlying trend is an increasing awareness of the effect of different farming methods on the environment. In fact, nearly 9 out of 10 people in France consider that organic production actually helps protect the environment.

A few figures regarding France and organic production:

•  47% of the French population consumed at least one organically produced item at least once a month in 2005, while the figure was only 37% in 2003.
•  45% of the French population bought, themselves or someone in their household, at least one organically grown item during the four weeks prior to the survey, compared with 33% in 2003.
•  56% of the French population say they identify with the intrinsic value of organic farming.
• 86% of the French population make positive remarks when discussing organic produce.
• 87% of the French population consider that organic produce helps to protect the environment
• 92% of consumer-purchasers recognise the AB logo
• On average, every consumer buys more than four different categories of organic produce
• Star organic items: 73% of consumer-purchasers of organic produce eat fruit and vegetables, 61% eat eggs
• 23% of consumer-purchasers of organic produce intend to increase their consumption in the next 6 months, 76% to maintain it.

Heading the reasons for the interest in organic produce: "to protect my health" (94% in 2005; 92% in 2004; 91% in 2003), "for their quality and flavour" (91% in 2005,92% in 2004;91% in 2003), "to be sure of healthy produce" (91% in 2005; 92% in 2004; 90% in 2003).

(*) A quantitative, face to face survey conducted between 24 and 29 October 2005 with 1042 people, a representative sample of the French population (in terms of sex, age [15 and over], socio-economic category, region and size of urban area)